Lugana to Triacastela - 9/7

(Distance: 23.8 kms  Time: 7 hours)
The Day: We started out early and in the dark. The weather wasn't great but it wasn't raining ... lots of fog. We were high up in the mountains and it was cold. Betsy wore her fleece most of the day and I had a long sleeve shirt on. Still, as some of the fog burned off, the views were spectacular yet again. We both felt pretty strong most of the day and we enjoyed the walk. It does seem as if it is becoming more crowded but we were still able to find some stretches where we were alone. One benefit ofmthe fog was that it was very quiet ... kind of like when you are out in a snow fall. We got to our destination by 2 pm and after doing our laundry, getting a shower and grabbing some lunch it was almost time for Mass. The Mass was very unique and tailored for pilgrims. The readings were read in 7 different laungues and Betsy read the the English version. We are now only 6 days from Santiago which is hard to believe. Soon this will all be just a memory which feels kind of sad.

The People: We had one of those days where old friends seem to pop out of nowhere. After reaching the top of the mountain around 8:30, we had breakfast and  saw Sally & Mark fom Colorado who we had not seen for a couple of days. Moving on, we started down the path when out of a building came Cherry from NYC. It was great to see her again and we walked together for a while and caught up. Then a little further down the path we passed Jamie who we thought was way in front of us. It turns out he got a bad case of tendinitis and had to rest for a couple of days. Later on in the day out of nowhere, Christian showed up and we walked the rest of the way into town with him. In town we saw a number of familiar faces which just makes you feel good.

Villafranca to Laguna - 9/6

(Distance: 26.3 kms  Time: 7 hours)
The Day: Cleansed of our bed bugs, we are back on the Way. Today was a solid day of over 26 kms with the last 10 or so climbing to about 1150 meters up in the mountains. This is the feared climb that Camino books talk about people paying to have their backpacks taken to the top for them while they make the climb. After tackling the Pyrannes and walking almost 400 miles we figured we were up to the challenge. We indeed made it without too much difficulty and will go another 200 meters first thing tomorrow morning to the top and continue on from there. Santiago is now under 100 miles away!

The People: We made some aquaintances along the way today but were alone for the most part.

early in the morning the Way followed a road

the road to the top

the view close to the top - spectacular

In Villafranca - 9/5

The Day: We stayed the day in Villafranca but not really by choice. Somewhere over the past two or three days we got into bed bugs. We have no idea how since we have been careful (we thought) and have sprayed our beds every night before using them. Betsy got bitten more than me but we both have multiple bites. So, we stayed in Villafranca to deal with it. The people at the albergue were wonderful and washed all of our clothes & sleeping bags in ammonia and they sprayed our backpacks & sealed them for 24 hours. The good news in all of this is that it rained all morning long so we avoided the challenge of walking in our rain gear. That is the first rain we have encountered and because of the bed bugs, we were able to dodge it.

The People: Most everyone we have met has moved on with the exception of Christian who had to take a day off for a sore tendon. We ran into him in the main plaza in Villafranca and sat at a cafe and shared a pitcher of sangria.

A special blog from Betsy: Hello everyone.  God, once again is reminding us, maybe me,  that he is in control.  Having bed bug bites on the Camino feels a little like being a leper.  We only have a few bites but it causes a systemic reaction so spots appear all over.   My legs and arms were covered yesterday and I had a couple of spots on my face.  It has been a very humbling experience for me.  The one thing I was really worried about for  this journey was getting bed bugs. Not being able to walk gave us some extra time, so we spent some of it in a beautiful church.  I was catching up on some daily readings, and one from 9-4 was Jesus healing the sick and casting out demons.  It helped me to accept these spots as sign of the inward cleansing that God has been doing on this journey.  It also is a reminder that He still has a long way to go. It is hard to believe that we are less than 2 weeks away from Santiago. I miss you all but would not change a thing, except, maybe the flies. I do not understand why God created flies! We are praying for you all and the special requests that you have given us.

Molinaseca to Villafranca - 9/4

(Distance: 31.2 kms  Time: 9.5 hours)
The Day: It was a long long day. The day started slow as we made our way first thing to Ponferrada (a 7kms walk) for our coffee and pastry. We found an ATM to replenish our money and then were on our way again. The day grew very hot (we were told it was the hottest day this summer for that area) and there wasn't a cloud in the sky ... with very little shade. The country side has changed completely now from flat fields of wheat to mountains & grape vines. Also the forecast appears to indicate we might have to deal with some rain but we deal with things one day at a time.

The People: Along the way yesterday, we met a couple from Virginia and ate lunch with them. We also saw Dami and Claudia, friends from a while ago, and then at the end of the day we briefly saw Angeliek. It is interesting that as we deal with what the day brings, each decision seems to reunite us with someone or introduce us to someone new and that enriches our experience.

castle in Ponferrada

castle wall

passing through a town for lunch

grape vines have replaced the wheat fields

Angeliek as we enter Villafranca

church in Villafranca

Foncebadon to Molinaseca - 9/ 3

(Distance: 20.7 kms  Time: 7 hours)
The Day : We stopped short of our goal today as we spent more time in the mountains than we anticipated. It was perfect weather and being at the highest point on the Camino at sunrise was spectacular (lots of pics below). Today was a special day too as we placed our rocks at the foot of the Cruz de Ferro... a simple iron cross atop a weathered pole with a huge pile of rocks & other tokens of love. It was a special time and we stopped for a while to recollect all the prayer intentions everyone gave us for the Camino. The rest of the day was downhill from there ... literally, as we descended about 900 meters to the bottom of the mountains. When we entered Molinaseca we began to cross an old stone bridge when we saw Jamie and others swimming in the river. Of course Jamie invited us in so down we went to the river. We didn't go swimming but we did soak our sore feet in the very cold water and it felt great. So that combined with the time spent in the mountains as well as the difficulty of the decent all did us in and we called it a day.

The People: I already mentioned seeing Jamie again but we also stayed in touch with Manfred. Cutting our day short also reunited us with Thorunn and Angeliek. Then we had a real surprise and saw Cherry whom we had not seen for along while. Funny how God works all that out for us :)

sun rise in the mountains

spectacular views as we walk in the mountains

Cruz de Ferro as the sun rises

rock pile at the foot of the Cruz de Ferro

our walk continues in the mountains ... God's beauty all around us

river / "swimming pool"

cooling our feet in the river

Astorga to Foncebadon - 9/2

(Distance: 27.2 kms  Time: 7 hours)
The Day: We had a rough start this morning ... both of us were ornery and we took it out on each other. Things smoothed out after a while and we ended up making good time. We both can see a difference in our stamina and the time it takes us to cover distances. (Hmmm ... does that mean I am now walking at Betsy's pace ?) By 11:30 am we had already walked our target of 21 kms so we had some lunch and then continued on to the next town. I have been trying to post pictures that give a feel for the country side & environment and since Leon we have noticed some changes. Gone are the wheat fields and the average age of the pilgrims has seemed to increase. Probably because we are loosing all the college age folks as schools get back in session and vacations in Europe come to an end. Tonight the town we are in is up on the side of a mountain and the view is magnificent.

in Astorga

The People: On and off today we saw Angeliek and Christian, and they are with us at the albergue. Some new acquaintances today but no new " friends"

Mazarife to Astorga - 9/1

(Distance: 31.2 kms  Time: 8.5 hours)
The Day: Well even with our "injuries" we made the 31 kms today. We both still hurt but that was to be expected. The terrain itself was not too difficult but it was rocky and hot. I had an incident when we were going over a bridge that crossed a railroad track, a gust of wind blew my hat off and it landed down on the tracks. I successfully retrieved it as Betsy nervously watched me. Tomorrow is a less aggressive day as far as how far we want to go, but it is mostly all uphill. Just another day on the Camino ...

The People: Most of the day we walked with our friend Angeliek with brief encounters with Thorunn and Jolie. We are becoming very comfortable with being by ourselves with some shared praying, a little conversation and a lot of silence (a good kind of comfortable silence) with only the crunching of the stones & dirt paths beneath our feet.

the road today

an old bridge into a town along the way

Betsy and Angeliek

in Astorga

Leon to Mazarife - 8/31

(Distance: 22 kms   Time: 5.5 hours)
The Day: We started out late this morning because breakfast (a real scrambled eggs, sausage, fruit and even choc cake for Betsy) came with our hotel room but they did not open up until 8am. So we were on the road at 8:30 and back on our journey of walking. What should have been a strong day for both of us given the day off turn out to be tough. I had my usual aches & pains that did not seem any better, but Betsy has developed a blister/sore on her left heel. By the afternoon we were moving at a very slow pace and finished the day limping in to the albergue. Her blister is buried underneath the callous on her heel and she eventually was able to drain it. We don't know whether it will just fill up again or begin to heal. Tomorrow is supposed to be a 31 kms walk but we will just have to see how the day unfolds. All prayers are welcome :-)

the way as we leave Leon behind us

Betsy and a local farmer

entering Mazarife

The People: We have reconnected with an old friend, Angeliek from Holland who we had not seen for over a week, and met her friend Thorunn from Iceland. The way is becoming a more internal journey as Betsy and I walk together.

Jolie, Angeliek, Christian, Thorunn, Manfred, Bob, Betsy at dinner

In Leon - 8/30

The Day: We spent the day relaxing and site seeing. First thing in the morning we toured the Cathedral and then returned to our hotel where we took a tour of it also. The hotel is an old monastery connected with the St Isidoro church with was built on part of some Roman ruins. The wall right outside our window was built in 100 BC! Betsy took advantage of being in a larger city and got her hair cut ... see pictures below :-) Tomorrow we are back on the trail as we tackle the last 300 kms to Santiago.

The People: We found our friend Mike from Canada, ran into Patrick once again and saw familiar faces of fellow pilgrims throughout the day. For the most part we spent the day on our own.

Puente to Leon - 8/29

(Distance: 13 kms  Time: 2.5 hours)
The Day: We made an easy walk this morning into Leon and then made our way to the old part of town & the Cathedral. After getting a map at the tourist center we ran into our friends again that we had not seen for two days ... Jamie, Valentina, Jee Young and Ensun. It was good to see them again and we spent the rest of the afternoon with them. We are staying in Leon for 2 nights so we can both rest some and see some of the sites.

The People: We are both excited and sad in making it to Leon. Excited because we made it walking 500 kms ( over 300 miles) ... sad because Leon is the end of the way for many of our new found friends. Leaving people is a real part of the Camino, just like in real life .. it is just that the "cycle of friendship" from first meeting people to sharing stories to becoming closer to saying good bye, all runs the full cycle in such a short period of time that makes it hard. We say we will stay in touch but that is hard too and rarely happens after we all get back and caught up in our real lives. So we put Ensun on a bus to Santiago, Valentina left shortly after, Jamie leaves tomorrow and tomorrow Jee Young will walk on while we stay in Leon. It is sad knowing we will probably never see any of them again but we know our life is richer and blessed having met them and shared the Camino with them ... something none of us will ever forget.

our first view of Leon

old city wall entering Leon

the Cathedral

reunited with friends again

our hotel in Leon

El Burgo Ranero to Puente Villarente - 8/28

(Distance: 24.5 kms  Time: 6 hours)
The Day: We continued on the alternate route today which the locals debate is the real Camino, to the point where the two paths join back together. Our original plan was to stay there but since we arrived before noon we decided to continue on. Leon is drawing near ( now only 12 kms) so early tomorrow morning we should arrive there. The way is now following the major highway to Leon so it is not as senic or peaceful but the path is well off the road so far so it is safe walking. At the end of today's walk the thought occurred to me that it would have been much better if they had buried St James in Leon as our bodies need a rest. So the plan is to stay in Leon for 2 nights and take a break. (for all you PM's reading this, translated for you this means I have project reserve built into the plan and I am taking advantage of it) We really are ahead of where we thought we would be and with no major injuries. A few minor blisters, very sore feet and tired backs & legs ... but for the most part in pretty good shape which helps make the whole experience that much better. Have I mentioned lately God is good? It seems even when we make a mistake He turns it into yet another great experience ... guess we are supposed to let Him be in control :-)

sometimes the way just goes on and on and on ...

another small town we passed

Betsy relaxing at the albergue

The People: Today we have pretty much been on our own with a few familiar faces here and there but none of the friends we've made. This morning we met a couple from Colorado Sally & Mark whom seemed about our age. She has tendinitis though so we far out paced them. The albergue we are in tonight is very nice with the usual 8 bunk beds per room arrangement and coed bath room & showers ... something we are getting used to but not something you grow to like. Tonight's pilgrim meal should give us a chance to meet some new people.

our room for the night